Full Camino Primitivo

You will be booked into a hotel in the heart of the town of Oviedo. The capital of the Asturias province is a wonderful place to explore. Of note is the Cathedral of San Salvador and the Cámara Santa de Oviedo within it, a vault housing the cathedral’s relics that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The downtown Plaza de la Escandalera and Plaza del Fontán in the old quarter are also great places to experience life in Oviedo passing by.

Our day begins at the Cathedral of El Salvador and, after leaving town, we head west. We arrive at the chapel of El Carmen in Lampajúa (Llampaxuga) and from here descend toward Ponte de Gallegos. The Camino then follows a beautiful trail along the river Nora to finish in a steep ascent to the lovely village of Escamplero. As we get closer to the river Nalón, we cross the N-634 highway, and the river itself over a bridge.

We begin this day with a tough start, climbing up for 5km to Alto del Fresnu. You will then enjoy a gentle downhill walk through hilly farmlands and hamlets until you reach Cornellana. Here, we recommend a visit to the monastery of El Salvador. From here to Salas, the Camino follows an upwards trajectory through more farmland and typical Asturias granaries (horreos). Finally, we approach the town of Salas on more gentle terrain.

This is a tough stage of the Camino, not because of its length (it’s actually shorter than some of the other days), but because it is ascending constantly. Fortunately, most of the climb is concentrated at the beginning of the day, with the ascent gentler towards evening. Following the national road for a short while, the Camino continues on a quieter, paved path that leads us to La Espina. Here we leave the Camino Norte that continues north-west. We now enter an area around Tineo with strong Asturian character and traditions.

This is another challenging stage of the Camino, with ups and downs throughout the day. After following the road for a short time, the Camino comes to a path descending through woodlands. Then it passes the small villages of Vega el Rey, Berrugoso, and Campiello. We finish the day with a steep descent of about 300m to arrive in Pola de Allande.

Today begins with an ascent of almost 600m before reaching the summit of Puerto del Palo. Here, your climb will be rewarded with amazing views of the Cantabrian Mountains. This is followed by a drop of 250m on what is called the ‘Camino de los Hospitales’ or Hospital Road, so be prepared for slips and be careful! Finally, passing through some woods, we arrive in Berducedo for the evening’s rest.

This is the most rewarding part of the Camino Primitivo, but also one of the hardest. We start by climbing to Aerogeneradores (wind turbines) at 1,100m above sea level, where you will get spectacular views of the Embalse de Salime (an artificial lake), the River Navia below and, of course, the mountains surrounding us! Then, it is a steep descent of 900m over just 7km of track. Finally, passing the dam of Embalse de Salime, the Camino makes its way up to town of Grandas Salime.

Today the Camino starts with a steep ascent to El Acebo Pass (at an elevation of 1,050m) for some fine views of the Cantabrian Mountains. It is now time to bid our farewell to Asturias and to say hello to the traditional land of the Celts – Galicia! After passing the mountain villages of Cabreria, Fonfría, and Barbeito, we arrive in A Fonsagrada for a well-deserved rest! In the town centre stands the Fons Sacra. This town bore witness to one of the miracles of the Apostle St James, who, after being attended to by an impoverished widow, turned the water from this fountain into fresh milk for her children.

After leaving A Fonsagrada, the Camino passes through A Pobra de Buron. Coming to Hospital de Montouto, we can see the actual hospital sitting on a hilltop. It is now in ruins, but was one of the last to close before the Spanish Civil War, and was probably the most important on all the mountain Caminos of Galicia. There is also a magnificent dolmen in the vicinity of the hospital. We then make our way to the town of O Cadavo, passing quaint villages such as Calzada, Degolada, and A Fontaneira. O Cadavo is the second most important town that the pilgrims on the Camino Primitivo will pass on their way to Santiago. According to local history, Alphonse II the Chaste fought the Moorish Army nearby.

The Camino continues through lands famous for their slate mines. This attractive village, which retains much of its original character, is home to a number of ‘Pallozas’ (primitive thatched dwellings) and other buildings of interest. Then, passing by the convent of San Francisco de Vilabade, we arrive in the pleasant town of Castroverde. After Castroverde, the Camino passes the abandoned village of Soutomerille, nestled in a landscape of great beauty. Finally, crossing farmland, the Way arrives in Lugo by the Gate of Saint Peter.

After leaving Lugo through the Porta Mina, the oldest gate of the walls around the city, the Camino heads towards the old Roman Bridge and the quarter of San Lazaro. A couple of kilometres later, it passes Santa de Boveda; a national monument and a museum where the most interesting early mediaeval paintings of the Iberian Peninsula can be seen. The Camino continues through a mix of farmland and forest until San Roman Da Retorta. We will then arrange a transfer to accommodation nearby.

After a transfer back to San Romao de Retorta, we begin our walk again. On the road from the hamlet there is a Roman milestone, indicating that the Camino was laid out following an ancient Roman road. Further on, you will pass a 13th Century Romanesque church, one of the many which are characteristic of the area surrounding Santiago. The Camino Primitivo follows ancient paths connects an endless number of small rural villages such as Seixalbo, Xende, Ferreira, and Merlan. Finally, the Camino enters the province of A Coruna through the borough of Toques to the historic pilgrimage town of Melide. Coming to Melide, you can stop in one of the many restaurants to try the traditional octopus dish, ‘Pulpo a la Plancha’.

This is the perfect start as the stroll quickly leaves Melide and heads off into quiet countryside, along forest track and through a few hamlets. At Boente de Ariba, you will pass by the ancient Church of Santiago before continuing through a forest track and reaching Catanada. You will then cross a few streams, and then you are at the last stretch to Arzua . Once in Arzua, you can then relax in the hotel.

This shaded section of the Camino will pass through woods, along streams, and through sleepy villages. Take your time and visit the chapel of Santa Irena, with its unique statues of Santiago. The rest of the way to Rua-O Pino is on a quiet country road. Rua (at an elevation of 310m) is one of the less crowded stopping points before Santiago de Compostela.

You’re nearly there! The next stage will be Lavacolla, where pilgrims traditionally washed in the river before reaching Santiago de Compostela. Tall eucalyptus trees line your way to Monte del Gozo, or Mount of Joy. From here, you can see your goal – the Cathedral of Santiago! After a descent to the city you’ll be able to witness this UNESCO World Heritage Site up-close. Marvel at the architecture and relish the wonderful atmosphere in this cultural and spiritual mecca, and contemplate all you’ve experienced on your amazing journey.

After breakfast, we bid you farewell.
If you wish to stay in the area, we recommend that you:
– Take your time and visit the magnificent historic centre of Santiago.
– Continue with us along the wild Camino Fisterra (Finisterre Way), and stay overnight at the hotel in the lighthouse!
– Or take a bus to Fisterra to visit the unspoilt sandy coves and beaches of the west coast. With very few tourists, you are guaranteed a very special experience. Buses depart from Santiago Bus Station at 9am and 10am. Buses return to Santiago at 4:45pm and 7pm. The journey takes 3 hours.