The Camino de Santiago is home to wonderful gastronomic experiences that reflects the diversity of local cultures along the Way of St James and the freshest of local produce. As the Camino gains in popularity, many restaurants, bars, and cafes now cater to a variety of dietary requirments. It is already simple to get delicious vegetarian food along The Way, but gluten free food in Spain was traditionally a bit harder to come by.
Now, however, there are options for people with Coeliac disease to work around their requirements while still embracing an authentic Camino experience. We chatted to Maggi Bierbaum, a pilgrim who recently travelled with Follow the Camino along the French Way about her search for gluten-free food options and, generally, her happy experiences on the Camino
Hi, Maggie! What role has walking played in your life?
I started to run regularly in my 20s, not just to stay fit but because it made me feel great. In my 30s I moved to an area that had great hikes and was near the mountains, so I began doing that with friends and my husband. Today, I run 4 miles a day and enjoy hiking as often as possible.
What inspired you to walk the Camino?
I was on vacation for my 60th birthday when I met a woman who was sharing how, for her birthday, she and her husband had walked the Camino. She said it was one of the best vacations she ever had because of all the amazing people she met on her journey. Afterwards, I told my husband I wanted to do the Camino because I thought we might be missing something special.
What did you know about the Camino before you went on it?
We knew the history of the pilgrimage, had seen the movie The Way, had been reading what people were posting on Facebook and seeing YouTube videos, so we had a pretty good understanding of what we could expect.
What surprised you or challenged your expectations of the Camino?
It was so pretty from Sarria to Santiago and so green! We didn’t know it had a Celtic heritage and loved hearing the bagpipes at different points on the trail. My husband has a Scottish heritage, so finding this out made our pilgrimage extra special.
What are the common misconceptions people have around gluten intolerance and Coeliac disease?
It is more common then people realise. It’s said that up to 6% of the world population has a gluten sensitivity and 1% of them have Coeliac disease, though it’s estimated that only half have been diagnosed.
People with Coeliac disease especially, have to be careful when eating out as we can become very sick due to cross contamination which occurs when gluten free food comes into contact with food containing gluten. I usually don’t eat somewhere unless I have talked to the manager of a restaurant and feel they understand and can handle my situation or I have read reviews from other coeliacs indicating it is a safe place to eat.
Were you concerned about finding food options appropriate to your diet when you were on the Camino?
Yes. I was diagnosed with Coeliac disease 18 years ago and although it has gotten easier over time to find gluten-free food, I still have that in-built anxiety there won’t be optons for me.
I had heard that gluten free food in Spain is more common than it used to be and that grocery stores would have options, but I wasn’t sure what I would find. I wasn’t willing to take chances with food I wasn’t sure would be safe. I decided to take pictures at one or more of the grocery stores in each town, so that others could see some of the gluten free food that they sold, and I posted the photos and information on the Coeliac travel groups on Facebook. One of the groups is called Gluten Free on the Camino so there was definitely interest in what I found.
Did you find that your dietary requirement was catered for on the Camino?
I ate the complimentary breakfast at Pazo de Berbetoros in Portomarin because when I checked in they assured me they could provide me with a gluten free breakfast. I had gluten free toast, juice and fruit, and was very happy that I could eat with everyone else. You would be surprised at how something so small is so appreciated when you need to be gluten free.
We did see a cafe on the route to Portomarin that stated they had gluten free options. I was nervous about taking a chance but if my Spanish was better, I would have stopped and asked questions. The same is true for restaurants that served tortillas. I’ve heard they are normally gluten free but I was concerned about cross contamination and didn’t know Spanish well enough to ask questions. However, once we arrived in Santiago, I was able to use the Find Me Gluten Free app to find restaurants that were safe.
It would have been nice if I could have eaten at more places along the Camino as it is a wonderful way to bond with the other pilgrims. I’m hoping that more Coeliacs will do the pilgrimage, have successful experiences eating out, and share their information too.
How did you plan your trip with Follow the Camino?
My husband and I decided right away we wanted to utilise a travel group that would transport our bags, find us hotels, and provide information so we would be ready for our walk. We chose Follow the Camino as you seemed to know where there would be gluten free food. The French Way was suggested as the best route for us because grocery stores were near where we stayed.
I was a little concerned about the weight of my luggage as I brought enough food for 11 days, the total amount of time I would be in Spain. It was primarily freeze dried food that I could rehydrate in a canister, crackers, and nuts. I was also able to get extra things that I needed from those grocery stores, so I didn’t need to bring as much as I did. But better to be safe than sorry!
What made the Camino such a unique travel experience?
Definitely the people you meet. The people on the hike were a mix of young and old, from all over the world, and from different religions, hiking for many different reasons.
I heard a mom and son singing in Hebrew, met a priest from Malta who was dedicating the hike to a young man who was struggling, and met a group of transplant recipients from France who were doing the hike as a thank you to their donors. Everyone was so warm and friendly and people spoke of the magic of the Camino, how pilgrims were helpful to each other and that the walk brought people together.
What advice would you give to people looking to walk the Camino themselves?
Make an effort to talk to the people you meet because that is what makes the walk special. Share any experiences you have with food allergies, Coeliac, or any other challenging situations, so that others will feel more comfortable doing the walk.
Want to learn more about dining on the Camino? Catch up on the latest from the our blog about eating your way along the Way of St James!
