If you’re walking the Camino de Santiago, you’ll likley travel from Sarria to Portomarin, small town in the province of Lugo (within Galicia). Located along the Camino Francés, this town sits above the Miño River. It offers stunning views, fascinating history, and a peaceful atmosphere for pilgrims.
Portomarín’s Unique Story
The history of Portomarin in this part of Spain starts in the Middle Ages, but it was in the 1960s when it took a turn. The government built a dam on the Miño River and flooded the original village. Portomarín was moved to a nearby hill. Workers took apart important buildings stone by stone and rebuilt them at the new location.
This careful work saved the town’s historic character. Today, Portomarín is a mix of ancient architecture and modern life.
Highlights of Portomarín
Church of San Juan
This 12th-century church stands as the centerpiece of Portomarín’s heritage. Originally built by the Order of St. John, it has thick stone walls and a fortress-like appearance. The church is not only a place of worship but also a powerful symbol of Portomarín’s resilience. Walking into this Romanesque building, you can feel its history and strength.
Plaza Conde Fenosa
The main square, Plaza Conde Fenosa, is the town’s social center – you’ll find the Church of San Juan, cafes, and small shops. Pilgrims gather in this plaza to rest and connect with others. This square is a lovely place to sit, relax, and soak in the peaceful atmosphere. During the summer, the square often hosts events and live music, adding to the town’s lively feel. This area is also where a majority of Portomarin’s hotels are based.
The Grand Stairway and Roman Arch
As you enter Portomarín, you’ll cross a bridge over the Miño River and climb a grand staircase. At the top, you’ll pass under a Roman arch, a remnant from a medieval bridge. This arch acts as a gateway to the town and offers a beautiful view of the river. Many pilgrims stop here for photos, capturing the moment as they enter Portomarín.
Old Town Ruins Beneath the Water
When the water level in the reservoir drops, you can sometimes see the ruins of the old Portomarín. Stone remains of houses, streets, and a medieval bridge peek out from beneath the water. These submerged ruins offer a glimpse into the town’s past and serve as a reminder of its transformation.
Beyond its historic buildings, Portomarín also offers stunning natural views. The town’s hilltop position lets you look out over the Miño River and the green Galician hills. This setting provides a peaceful and picturesque spot for pilgrims. Whether you’re at the plaza or strolling along the river, the scenery invites you to pause and reflect on your journey.
The Camino after Portomarín
The Camino de Santiago route to Portomarin is mostly through shady oak woods and quiet villages. Leaving Portomarín, you step into the last 90km of the road to Santiago de Compostela. The path to Palas de Rei, about 25km away, leads through similar terrain to how you arrived in Portomarín: quiet forests, open fields, and small villages.
This part of the Camino feels calm and reflective. Each step brings you closer to Santiago de Compostela, surrounded by the sounds of nature and the simple charm of village life. Walking here, you may feel a deep connection to the journey and to all who have walked it before.
For many pilgrims, Portomarín is more than a place to rest. It’s a meaningful stop—a town filled with history, community, and natural beauty. When you leave, you carry its spirit with you, refreshed and inspired for the road ahead.
Take time to enjoy the view, breathe in the calm, and continue, knowing that Portomarín has become a part of your Camino journey. To learn more about the Camino Francés
