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How King Alfonso II of Asturias became the first celebrity pilgrim on the Camino

Statue of King Alfonso II of Asturias

Hundreds of thousands embark on the Camino each year, including a fair share of celebrities looking to experience the magic of this pilgrimage. Celebrities walk the route on film, like Hollywood star Martin Sheen in The Way, or in documentaries about the Camino, which brought British TV stars Neil Morrissey and Ed Byrne to the French Way. But famous people also walk the Camino on their own personal journeys. Former German Chancellor Angela Merkel, actor Shirley MacLaine, and the Belgian Royal Family are examples of celebrities who have walked the Camino. But the original Camino star? King Alfonso II of Asturias.

Who? Alfonso II was King of Asturias during two periods: first in the year AD 783 and then from 791-842. In an incredible 50 year reign, Alfonso II corresponded with Charlemagne of France and Pope Adrian I, battled Andalusian raiders, and became the most notable early pilgrim to visit the resting place of St James in a town known then only as Compostela. We are going to dive into the life of King Alfonso II of Asturias and see how his visit to a small Galician town was a catalyst in the growth of the most notable pilgrimage in the Christianity.

The life of King Alfonso II of Asturias

Alfonso II was born in Oviedo in 759 or 760. Much like his birth year, his upbringing is disputed. Some historians say he was raised under the guardianship of his aunt Adosinda, while others claim he grew up in the Monastery of San Xulián de Samos

In his adulthood, he was appointed as Governor of the Royal Asturian Palace during the reign of Adosinda’s husband, Silo. On Silo’s death in AD 783, Alfonso II was elected King of Asturias. However, his uncle Mauregatus was raised to the throne instead, and Alfonso II was forced to flee to Álava, 331km west of his birthplace of Oviedo. The next Asturian King, Bermudo, was then defeated by the rival Emirate of Córdoba in battle in 791. In the wake of this defeat, Bermudo abdicated and left Alfonso II to return to the Asturian throne.

Church of Oviedo

His first few years as king were marked by the decision to relocate the Asturian capital from Pravia to Oviedo. There he constructed churches, including San Tirso (where he is buried) and San Julián de los Prados, and a royal palace. Before too long, the Andalusian Emirate of Córdoba were attacking Asturias again in the Pyrenees and south of modern day Galicia.

Under pressure from his enemies as they advanced into Asturias, Alfonso II sought assistance from two of the most powerful people in the world at the time: Charlemagne of France and Pope Adrian I. The Papacy gave his kingdom legitimacy, while military support from Charlemagne spurred Alfonso II to raid Andalusian territory as far south as Lisbon, which was captured in 798. This marked the end of incursions into the Asturias for 25 years, before further campaigns against the Andalusians would capture parts of Galicia, León, and Castille that remain a core part of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage network to this day.

King Alfonso II and the Camino

But Alfonso II wasn’t just a political and military leader. He was a devout Catholic who had shown interest in the cult of St Martin of Tours as early as AD 796. This interest in pilgrimage would make King Alfonso II of Asturias the Camino de Santiago’s first celebrity pilgrim.

How the remains of the Apostle St James were discovered is still debated by historians and religious figures. However, the most well-known story goes that St James was killed on order of Herod in Jerusalem and his remains transported by boat to Galicia, where he was buried in an unassuming tomb. This site was rediscovered in 814 by a man called Pelagius, who claimed to follow strange lights in the sky near present-day Santiago de Compostela to the grave. A local bishop recognised this as a miracle and informed King Alfonso II.

a picture of a depicted religious shell

Alfonso II immediately ordered the construction of a chapel on the burial site and, once completed, underwent a pilgrimage from his capital Oviedo. He is said to have passed through towns now synonymous with the Camino Primitivo (Original Way), including Lugo, in a 300km journey to pay his respects to St James. The news of this pilgrimage spread around the Asturias and to other Christian kingdoms, with pilgrims soon beginning to make the journey to Compostela and the tomb of St James from across northern Spain and France. 

As the years went by, the influence of King Alfonso II of Asturias remained, with the pilgrimage’s increasing popularity meaning the chapel was upgraded to a church in AD 829 and then rebuilt in a pre-Romanesque style 70 years later by another King Alfonso (of León).

The legacy of King Alfonso II

Alfonso II may have been one of the first pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, and certainly its earliest celebrity. But what does his legacy mean for the Camino? Would the pilgrimage route still have become as popular as it is today without the influence of the Asturian king?

While it’s difficult to argue one way or the other, it is clear that King Alfonso II of Asturias had a significant impact on the early development of the popularity of the Camino. Around this time, routes to the remains of St Martin of Tours were becoming increasingly well-traveled. Alfonso II’s early patronage of the Camino pilgrimage swung the axis of pilgrimage to western Spain, attracting thousands of pilgrims as the years went by. The regular re-building and upgrading of the religious site around the tomb of St James is evidence of this impact. 

Without King Alfonso II, there also may well be no Camino Primitivo. Had he not relocated the capital of Asturias to Oviedo, pilgrimages from this now-famous city would have been greatly reduced, changing the very map of the Camino de Santiago network as we know it!

a picture of a path with 2 pilgrims on it Camino

Making your mark on the Camino

Alfonso II was the Camino’s first of many celebrity visitors. However, many thousands of other pilgrims undertake this adventure to mark turning points in their own life, reconnect with family, or experience the hospitality and culture of this part of the world. It’s the diversity that makes the Camino special, with people from all walks of life coming together to walk and make their mark on the Camino—and wait for the Camino to change them in return.

If you are keen to follow in the footsteps of King Alfonso II, Hollywood actors, and many more, our team of expert planners can help you design a custom itinerary for walking the Camino de Santiago. Chat to us for 10 minutes about your ideal trip!

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